Today we decided that yesterday on the bike was not enough and that we would take the bike to My Son – a 60km round trip to see some of the ancient ruins that are also heritage listed.
The way to get there seemed easy enough an every one wanted to help. I had the receptionist at the hotel write on the map, in Vietnamese, “Which way to My Son” which helped as in normal fashion, we got lost. The ruins are a must see even if it’s just to get out into the countryside. We took many photos and then stopped were we parked the bike at the entrance gate to have a bite to eat. The run down hut would probably put most westerners off but what the heck, what don’t kill you only makes you stronger right? Well the pork bean sprouts and steamed rice was just what the doctor ordered! We set off again back to the hotel in Hoi Ann and guest what? We got lost again!
Stopping to ask directions and also due to the fact that the front brake had ceased completely we were at the mercy of the locals. Scampering down to the creek under the bridge the young boys went looking for water to cool the brakes, while the old man disconnected to brake leaver. In a gesturing motion he took my hand and placed it on the now non-functional leaver and smacked my hand. It was his way of explaining that the brakes now are not working and that I would have to ride now with only the rear brake! For anyone who understands motorbikes it’s the front brake that does all the work and the rear is just like a hand brake in a car. With a few hand gestures and vague directions we headed off, not after buying the man a pack of Marlboro’s for his help. Once again we got lost and ended up in Da Nang! So our 60km round trip ended up being 150km! Elena has a sore rear and I got the windburn from hell!
After a cold beer in one of the local café’s within 5 minutes walk from Greenfields Hotel we then organised a car to take us to Hue – a 3 hour trip to the north of Da Nang. We had a choice, either to take the Mountain road or use the new 15km tunnel and get there faster. We were told that the views from the top of the mountains were spectacular and with the sun going down we would get some wonderful postcard like snapshots.
So it was settled, we were going over the mountains. Our driver turned up after some lengthy negotiation between the hotel receptionist and the tour driver company. We loaded our bags into the car and paid the hotel for the driver. Then as we were backing out onto the road or driver decides to inform us that we will be going through the tunnel! I was furious and demanded that he stop the car. I stormed back into the hotel and explained the situation. Apparently though much talking our driver was tired and didn’t want to take us that way although we had paid extra. The sun was going down and if we didn’t get a new driver soon all this negotiating would prove to be purely academic. Finally an hour later we set off with a driver only too eager to get us to where we wanted to go.
The mountains loomed up ahead of us piercing the clouds now forming in the late afternoon sun. We passed miles of what I would call back home potential prime beach front real-estate and wondered what will happen to this country in the next ten years. We started to climb over the steepest mountains but beautiful country – just like the postcards only real! The car strained under such demanding conditions. I can only imagine was this road would have been like just three years ago when the tunnel was not completed and this was the only road north. As we climbed up and up, my ears popping to adjust to the altitude we came to the summit surrounded in mist and low cloud, damn! No chance to see the bay and the land we had just travelled.
As the car slowed our driver informed up that we would stop here for 15 minutes and pointed to old gun emplacements up a worn track that we could take pictures.
Strewn along the side of the road at this high on the hill pit stop was numerous stalls and eating huts and of cause the ever present street hawkers that earn their living by selling to trinkets that you will never use.
The car was surrounded and as Elena and I stepped from the car the barrage started. “You buy from me sir… Many different colours…” and on and on they went. Elena started walking toward the monuments surrounded in beggars and hawkers and I was left helpless with these ladies all wanting me to buy. I did the dumbest thing, thinking that if I buy a bracelet and a packet of mints I would be free of them, but no they then turn on me with twice the vigor. “You buy from her you buy from me sir…” Elena was starting to panic I saw her through a bracelet on the ground that a girl was trying to get her to buy and stormed back to the safety of the car.
I still hadn’t seen the monuments yet and as I walked up the steep path these hawkers persistently followed. Tried so stay polite, with my ever so nice “No thank you”, but it fell on deaf ears, these girls were the hawkers from hell! I reached the car and told the driver who was comfortably sipping on a cup of tea with the locals that we wanted to get out of here, NOW!
We sat next to each other in angry stunned silence to the trip down the mountain. Why had I allowed myself to buy that bracelet? Why didn’t we stick together? Was this a plan by our driver so he got commission? Who knows, we just wanted to get to our hotel.
Dusk set in as we approached Hue an ancient city with some of the best shopping in Vietnam. Tonight we would stay in the luxury suite that Elena had booked for two nights. Only when we checked in we were booked for one night. A quick check and all was sorted.
Well…it’s 9.30pm and I am buggered! We had dinner ($4.80) just across the road from the hotel which consisted of 1 x beer, 1 x fresh tomato shake 1 x steamed rice, 1 x pork & fried rice with vegetables and garlic shrimp and fried noodle. SO MUCH FOOD SO LITTLE MONEY…it’s like this everywhere and not a Mc Donald’s to be seen.
After dinner Elena left me in the lobby typing an email to friends and family around the globe, my first chance to get in touch with technology and after 20 minutes I could feel that my eyes were closing and the bed time was way overdue.
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