The Peak is one of the main Hong Kong attractions and I knew that the views would be amazing so Ive decided to spend my afternoon taking a tram up to Victoria peak which is located on a different island (Hong Kong Island).
The idea was really great… in theory. In reality it was a completely different story.
It started out quite pleasant. I walked about 15 mins to the harbour where star ferries depart from. It is a big ferry terminal with lots of departures but again the sign posts are good and it’s easy to find where you are going.
What made it interesting that a huge liner Star Virgo was in town and as soon as I got there and snapped a couple of pictures , the anchor was lifted and big, majestic ship started slowly manoeuvre itself throughout the harbour.
The trip across the water to Hong Kong Island was very pleasant with a quick 5 min ride on a big wooden ferry which is quite spacious inside.
From ferry terminal I took 15C bus and for 4.20HKD I took 5 min trip to lower tram station. The way to pay for Macau and Hong Kong buses is either by swiping your prepaid bus card or putting coins into the machine. The machine doesn’t give change as it’s like a bucket where you just put the money . It asks you to put exact change but I only had $5 so was happy to pay that.
Once we got to lower tram station the fun stopped.
The tram is really a funicular railway built in late 1800 s over a very (and I mean VERY) steep hill all the way up to the top.
When I got off the bus I was met with a huge queue that snaked around the building just to buy tickets. We stood for 30 mins, maybe longer in the heat and then tropical rain started. Luckily I was just under cover, near ticket booth by that stage and most Chinese tourists seem to have umbrellas with them all the time.
After buying tickets the queue got into a big sea of people that were standing shoulder to shoulder inside a building with no air conditioning and not much air movement. Every time another tram came people pushed and shoved to get ahead. I wasn’t going to give up my space either , I had a good queue training back in 1980’s Russia!
I have to admit even after waiting for an hour a thought crossed my mind to give up. But I persevered and probably after another 30-40 mins we got on. Or would I rather say pushed on the bloody thing?
Everyone grabbed seats but I was standing along with a couple of others but it was actually quite good, we had a good view and a real feeling what it’s like travelling on 45% incline. Not sure about real figure but it was really steep.
Amazingly were were going past skyscrapers that were built all the way up the hill. Wow!
Somehow disappointingly at the top of the hill there were 2 shopping malls and the main viewing platform is small. There’s a big one with 360 views but you had to buy a separate ticket at the bottom.
There’re a few walking paths and as soon as I took a few steps along one, the crowds disappeared almost within 10 meters. There’re views of the harbour along the path and I found a secluded spot to have a snack that I had with me.
Not sure where the path led I returned to main square and to be honest was ready for some air conditioning treatment. I went inside one of the malls and found a separate wing called green terrace that had organic and alternative shops. One was for local artists that display their handicrafts from costume jewellery to scarfs, notebooks, handbags, etc. it was really good but nothing I wanted to buy .
The second shop I can describe as homewares/clothing alternative upmarket shop. Wow, I loved it!
I didn’t want to take photos, in case it’s not allowed but they had a recycled paper handbags that looked stunning. They had white plates with a dragon motif around the perimeter, it was grey in colour and looked like tattoos do. They had cushions and men’s undies with funky designs, it wasn’t trashy cheap market style but rather alternative arty style.
It was getting very late in the afternoon, around 5 pm and I was getting very hungry, not having proper lunch.
The green terrace had Vietnamese restaurant which looked inviting. I loved so many things on the menu so I ended up ordering 2 dishes and while I haven’t finished one of them it was my “spoil myself ” moment. The food was delicious, service was impeccable and yes, they did have the views.
Actually one side of hill has views of Victoria harbour with Kowloon buildings, the opposite side had views of numerous islands and that’s what I saw from the restaurant. Free viewing platforms are on both sides and I was lucky enough to be there on a clear sunny day .
What can I say about a return tram trip down.
it was marginally better with only a 40 mins wait and most of it was outside in the evening breeze.
Once down I walked all the way to the ferry terminal instead of taking the bus. It was dark now,not hot and I had a fairly pleasant 20 min walk across Hong Kong financial district with big skyscrapers.
The most amazing thing was crowds of people sitting on the ground, in small groups , on newspapers or cloths and playing cards, dominoes, bingo, etc.
Some were even sitting on the road! Not sure if they were local people finishing work but it was Sunday? Mystery to me as whether it happens every day or it was an one-off event .
After crossing the harbour and walking back to my hotel my feet and calves were so sore; they did a bit of walking and standing today!
I was thinking of where can I get a massage but kept getting pestered by Indians trying to sell fake watches to me. Ha! Me and watches? We are not friends… I haven’t worn one since 1998.
Suddenly just a block before my hotel, after an epic 6 hour walking day a lady appeared with massage brochures. All I could say was ” where is it”.
She ushered me across the road and inside a building then up the elevator where we reached a massage place that was probably converted from an original apartment. They had 10 massage rooms , all the size of a closet, my massage lady had to slide sideways around the table and no, you can’t be overweight and work there!
I had 45 mins lymphatic massage, it was hard just as I like it so not relaxing but very very good. The cost for 45 mins was 188 Hong Kong dollars which is about 25-30AUD. I was thinking of returning the next day for $99 special foot massage – all in all a good day out minus the queues.
My advice, avoid the weekends. If the queue is too long and you had experienced funicular trams/ rail before then take the taxi.
There’re a couple of walking circuits around the hill, each 1 hr long which I would of loved to do had I not wasted my energy on standing in line.
