After tacking these mountain roads a couple of days ago on a scooter and being ripped off by the police over licensing. Elena suggested that to see the rest of the mountain region we should use a guided car or at the very least hire a driver for the day.
This morning was to be our last in Ubud as we want to move closer to the ocean and I really want to hunt out some doors and windows for our build project in Vanuatu later this year.
Elena’s found it difficult sleeping as Sedana Ubud has a couple of roosters the start crowing as an unearthly hour. As for me I don’t mind. It’s at these unearthly hours that stories I;m writing right now get done.
It’s going to be sad leaving here as the family we’re staying with are so accommodating and really friendly. I’m going to mis the green banana pancakes for breakfast, but as all travellers know this is part of travelling. the forming of friendships that last as long as the moment and others that last a lifetime.
Staying with Nyoman and Wayan bought us a little closer to true balinese culture and family life, the was the family lives in this extended compound is harmonious and everyone works together. I can’t remember the last time my own family did this. In fact I don’t know any western family that live like this. Balinese people have a real sense of community. Where as so many westerners have no idea who lives next to them, yet they pay top dollar for their homes because its a good neighbourhood.
Nyoman our generous host for the last couple of days was now to be our driver and would take us up the mountain road, this time to a different area to where we went last time. The roads are just as practice as we negotiate the narrow lane ways that the Balinese call streets. Every man, woman, chilld and dog was out this morning.. Although the drive was only 40Km when traveling at 30-40Km the journey seemed to take forever. Nyoman was happy discussing the culture and life of his country and this made the journey that much more enjoyable.
Almost every house in Bali seems to have a shopfront (similar to Vietnam) and with the population being largely Hindu each house and work place has a temple within the compound. Adorned with orange flowers and incense the aroma you get even when driving is lifting, you realise how unconnected and self centred you become in the west. In Bali it seems people are more focused on spiritual well being then financial well being, although I’ve only been here a couple of days who knows what its like in other parts of the island.
Elena had spied a brochure that mentioned an Elephant Temple, so this was to be our first stop on our days travels. Being not far from Ubud and with little traffic on the road the journey was quick and we were soon ushered down the path into a courtyard set against a cliff with an opening into the cave. Well it’s not really a cave, more a carved out tunnel with elephant motif adorning the entrance. It was dimly lighted and made no interest for an photo opportunity. Sadly their were no Elephants either at the temple, but the walk down into the forest revealed the ruins of a Buddhist temple that collapsed under the weight of trees that had fallen many years ago. There is a Buddhist shrine here, but once again sadly the buddhist statues were nowhere to be seen. All in all, a nice stroll, but nothing of real interest here.
After climbing uphill for the last hour we reach the summit and traverse a small valley between two mountains and wind through a village famous for strawberries then down to the Danu Beratan Lake. Famous for the picture post card temple that adorns most travel brochures of Bali. The crowds were everywhere and if your looking for an place of quiet solitude and meditation you’ve come to the wrong place. However we did walk t the far corner of the garden on the lakes edge and found an open gate. Strolling beyond the wall that surrounds the temple will give you a reprieve and time to gather your thoughts again.
It’s a long drive to get here so make sure you’re prepared to make a day of it, and make sure the car has air con as it gets humid even if its a little cooler in the mountain region.
On our descent Nyoman ask if we would like to stop somewhere for lunch as he knew a place that he thought we might like. Taking a little side road for a couple pf Km we were spellbound by the magnificent view that opened out in around of us. the Rice Terraces were incredible. Such was buffet style and once again I had the opportunity to sample the Black Rice Pudding that seems to be a a common desert on the tourist trail.
Now was for the longest part of our journey, now we headed for Sanur, the beach is on the south western side of the Island and is a popular tourist destination. Elena and her mother stayed Sanur 3 years ago and once arriving here Elena noticed how much the place has developed in such a short space of time. We wondered if Espiritu Santo our Island home in Vanuatu will ever have the same development.
With firm handshakes and prayers we had to say good bye to Nyoman, with solemn promises to send photos and keep in touch as we unpacked the car and headed to our new home for one night. It’s incredible what you learn when staying with a local family, sadly we won’t be learning form our new abode as we’re now in a hotel designed for the so called “normal” tourist.
Exploring the beach and boardwalk we soon discovered the hotel where Elena and her Mother stayed, Elena was also quick to point out another hotel were they just walked up and used the pool facilities. As she said how are they to know, we all look the same to them. Yup my wife is the official cheapskate.
Walking the boardwalk at night may seem a little scary for some as the street lighting is non-existant. and in some places you’re totally in the dark, but we were in search of food and a quiet place to sit on the beach. We thought we found one until some Tattoo sleeved Aussie and his makes rocked up as we were looking as the menu. Sadly it’s what seems to pass as an Aussie Tourist in Bali, Bintang Singlet, Fake Havanas, Knock off Billabong Board-shorts and a scooter (you get the picture). Obviously we moved on seeking a quieter spot.
In the darkness on the boardwalk and away from all the over priced hotels we stumbled into a ramshackle place called Jacks. With sand for a floor and wooden tables perched with walking distance to the water we found a winner. With Mojito’s , Nasi Goring and grilled pork we dined into the darkness before staggering home to bed. Well Elena was staggering, I forgot she’s a cheap drunk…. Dinner cost $15AUD including drinks.
